The International Spaghetti all’Assassina Accademia

Spaghetti all’assassina is one of Puglia’s most distinctive dishes. The raw spaghetti is first toasted and then cooked directly in the pan with tomato, olive oil, garlic and chilli, rather than simply being boiled and dressed with sauce. The result is a dish with a deep tomato flavour, crisp edges and a characteristic smoky, slightly charred finish.

The dish has its own history, traditions and rules. It also has its own institutions.

The original Accademia dell’Assassina was founded in Bari in 2013 by a group of enthusiasts who wanted to celebrate the dish, explore its history and establish what they considered the correct way to prepare it. At the time, membership was open only to men. A women-only Contraccademia was subsequently established, with a similar aim of tasting, discussing and promoting spaghetti all’assassina.

For several years, the two academies operated separately. Relations have since become much more cordial, including shared tastings where members of both groups meet to judge and enjoy the dish together.

Both organisations have played an important role in keeping the story and traditions of spaghetti all’assassina alive as the dish has become increasingly popular. But, as with many dishes with a strong local identity, there is plenty of disagreement about what constitutes an authentic assassina. There are different accounts of its origins, different interpretations of the original recipe and different opinions about the best way to cook it.

We have eaten spaghetti all’assassina in restaurants across Bari and beyond, and have found excellent examples made in different ways. Some follow the established rules closely; others take a more relaxed approach. For us, understanding the traditional method is important, but so is recognising that recipes evolve.

That is where the International Spaghetti all’Assassina Accademia comes in.

Based in Puglia but looking beyond the region, our aim is to promote spaghetti all’assassina internationally and to help cooks everywhere understand what makes the dish distinctive. Unlike many regional Italian specialities, it does not depend on a long list of ingredients that are difficult to find outside Puglia. Its character comes largely from the cooking technique.

That means it can be made far beyond Bari — provided you understand how to cook the spaghetti, control the heat and achieve that essential balance between a rich tomato sauce and a properly scorched, crunchy finish.

This is our guide to the dish, its history, its traditions and how to cook it.

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